For the art world, conversations are plentiful. Critics are nigh to always interested in learning how artists come to process and meditate on inspiration; designers continually navigate conflicting desires for both the surface transferability of immaterial culture and the purposefulness derived from materiality; and craftspeople are constantly defending their merit in the hierarchical structure of creativity. Marisa Competello, founder of Metaflora—one of New York’s most exciting floral design studios—occupies the very intersection of all of these vantage points. Her instincts were incubated over 10 years of assisting fashion stylists and a lifetime of dance studies, having never formally trained in design herself.
Derrick Gaitér—What is most gratifying to you about your pieces?
Marisa Competello—I’m grateful that people are appreciating my work. It was a leap to start this new business. I wanted to work with flowers because they’re so lovely. So quiet. Fashion was a little more hectic, so I’m glad I achieved something on my own that is peaceful and beautiful.
Above The Fold
Sam Contis Studies Male Seclusion
Slava Mogutin: “I Transgress, Therefore I Am”
The Present Past: Backstage New York Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2018
Pierre Bergé Has Died At 86
Falls the Shadow: Maria Grazia Chiuri Designs for Works & Process
An Olfactory Memory Inspires Jason Wu’s First Fragrance
Brave New Wonders: A Preview of the Inaugural Edition of “Close”
Georgia Hilmer’s Fashion Month, Part One
Modelogue: Georgia Hilmer’s Fashion Month, Part Two
Surf League by Thom Browne
Nick Hornby: Grand Narratives and Little Anecdotes
The New Helmut
Designer Turned Artist Jean-Charles de Castelbajac is the Pope of Pop
Splendid Reverie: Backstage Paris Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2017
Tom Burr Cultivates Space at Marcel Breuer’s Pirelli Tire Building
Ludovic de Saint Sernin Debuts Eponymous Collection in Paris
Peaceful Sedition: Backstage Paris Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2018
Ephemeral Relief: Backstage Milan Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2018
Olivier Saillard Challenges the Concept of a Museum
“Not Yours”: A New Film by Document and Diane Russo
Introducing: Kozaburo, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist
Introducing: Marine Serre, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist
Conscious Skin
Escapism Revived: Backstage London Fashion Week Men’s Spring/Summer 2018
Introducing: Cecilie Bahnsen, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist
Introducing: Ambush, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist
New Artifacts
Introducing: Nabil Nayal, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist
Bringing the House Down
Introducing: Molly Goddard, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist
Introducing: Atlein, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist
Introducing: Jahnkoy, 2017 LVMH Prize Finalist
LVMH’s Final Eight
Escaping Reality: A Tour Through the 57th Venice Biennale with Patrik Ervell
Adorned and Subverted: Backstage MB Fashion Week Tbilisi Autumn/Winter 2017
The Geometry of Sound
Klaus Biesenbach Uncovers Papo Colo’s Artistic Legacy in Puerto Rico’s Rainforest
Westward Bound: Backstage Dior Resort 2018
Artist Francesco Vezzoli Uncovers the Radical Images of Lisetta Carmi with MoMA’s Roxana Marcoci
A Weekend in Berlin
Centered Rhyme by Elaine Lustig Cohen and Hermès
How to Proceed: “fashion after Fashion”
Robin Broadbent’s Inanimate Portraits
“Speak Easy”
Revelations of Truth
Re-Realizing the American Dream
Tomihiro Kono’s Hair Sculpting Process
The Art of Craft in the 21st Century
Strength and Rebellion: Backstage Seoul Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017
The Faces of London
Document Turns Five
Synthesized Chaos: “Scholomance” by Nico Vascellari
A Whole New World for Janette Beckman
New Ceremony: Backstage Paris Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017
New Perspectives on an American Classic
Realized Attraction: Backstage Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017
Dematerialization: “Escape Attempts” at Shulamit Nazarian
“XOXO” by Jesse Mockrin
Brilliant Light: Backstage London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017
The Form Challenged: Backstage New York Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017
Art for Tomorrow: Istanbul’74 Crafts Postcards for Project Lift
Inspiration & Progress
Paskal’s Theory of Design
On the Road
In Taiwan, American Designer Daniel DuGoff Finds Revelation
The Kit To Fixing Fashion
The Game Has Changed: Backstage New York Fashion Week Men’s Autumn/Winter 2017
Class is in Session: Andres Serrano at The School
Forma Originale: Burberry Previews February 2017
“Theoria”
Wearing Wanderlust: Waris Ahluwalia x The Kooples
Approaching Splendor: Backstage Paris Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2017
In Florence, History Returns Onstage
An Island Aesthetic: Loewe Travels to Ibiza
Wilfried Lantoine Takes His Collection to the Dancefloor
A Return To Form: Backstage New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018
20 Years of Jeremy Scott
Offline in Cuba
Distortion of the Everyday at Faustine Steinmetz
Archetypes Redefined: Backstage London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018
Spring/Summer 2018 Through the Lens of Designer Erdem Moralıoğlu
A Week of Icons: Backstage Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2018
Toasting the New Edition of Document
Embodying Rick Owens
Prada Channels the Wonder Women Illustrators of the 1940s
Andre Walker’s Collection 30 Years in the Making
Fallen From Grace, An Exclusive Look at Item Idem’s “NUII”
Breaking the System: Backstage Paris Fashion Week Men’s Autumn/Winter 2017
A Modern Manufactory at Mykita Studio
A Wanted Gleam: Backstage Milan Fashion Week Men’s Autumn/Winter 2017
Fashion’s Next, Cottweiler and Gabriela Hearst Take International Woolmark Prize
Beauty in Disorder: Backstage London Fashion Week Men’s Autumn/Winter 2017
“Dior by Mats Gustafson”
Prada’s Power
George Michael’s Epochal Supermodel Lip Sync
The Search for the Spirit of Miss General Idea
A Trace of the Real
Wear and Sniff
Underwater, Doug Aitken Returns to the Real
Petit h, Plentiful Possibilites
Derrick—Is there any particular knowledge that you find transferable between both worlds?
Marisa—Styling and floral design are very similar: They’re both about gathering things and putting them together; color and texture, and combining things you wouldn’t necessarily think go together. I’m still schlepping packages around—a gathering aspect very similar to styling.
Derrick—I imagine working with flowers is a delicate and perhaps more difficult process. What are some limitations to working with organic matter?
Marisa—There’s a limited amount of flowers; you never know what is going to be available on a day-to-day. Some days when I go to the market, I’m hoping they’ll have something in particular that they don’t. That can be challenging. Othertimes, things show up that surprise you and a design will take off based on what is available. In some cases, I want [the flowers] to do things that they can’t because they are too fragile. Lately, I’ve been playing with the limited color palette of flowers. I’ve been trying to use the painted varieties like blue or black—metallics are really cool. They are fun to mix in because they expand what’s naturally available.
Derrick—How important is it to embrace spontaneity in your artistry?
Marisa—I think being open to whatever idea comes to me and being inspired by what is available is when I create my most interesting compositions. Especially for editorial, [that mindset] allows me the opportunity to play and experiment; I’m able to do that also with my more regular clients. I have a nice balance of special requests and open-ended interpretations. I prefer the experimental aspect.
I don’t manipulate the flowers too much. I want them to go in their direction because I want them to be in their natural shape or form.
Derrick—Culturally speaking, certain flowers have particular significances, be it type, color, or meaning derived from moments in time. When you’re designing, do you find yourself reinventing new meanings among flowers with existing associations or negotiating what you perceive about a flower and what a client perceives?
Marisa—Luckily, what I do is so specific that when a client comes to me I mostly get to freestyle and interpret things in my way. I’m not quite sure if I’m limited to the meanings of flowers. I’m not using that many traditional flowers or using them in a traditional way, so I kind of feel like I avoid that scenario.
Derrick—A common theme in your work is an embrace of a very mathematical, linear order: use of many stems and leaves opposed to the actual blossom. What would you say gravitates you to these linear qualities?
Marisa—The linear aspect is my embrace of their natural movement and shape. I also prefer more minimalistic design. I’m much more of a less-is-more kind of person in all aspects of my life. I don’t manipulate the flowers too much. I want them to go in their own direction because I want them to be in their natural shape or form. I can’t help but relate my composition method to my dance background. I studied dance my whole life, and I still dance today, so that’s how I also see stylizations in my mind.