Photographer Edd Horder and stylist Lilia Toncheva O’Rourke practice Afghanistan’s national pastime, positioning play as an act of resistance
Kite flying has been a tradition in Afghanistan for hundreds of years. In Kabul, flying a kite from the rooftops is like playing a pick-up game of soccer. From 1996 to 2001, the pastime was banned by the Taliban as un-Islamic, and it was prohibited again in 2021, following the Taliban’s return to power, along with a rush of other draconian regulations—most notably, women’s right to education. Of all these restrictions, none fit the metaphor of state oppression quite as succinctly as a downed kite.
Edd Horder imagines kite flying as an act of resistance: His photographs are a quiet protest. “We wanted to realize this shoot in solidarity with Afghani people and celebrate the tradition,” he says. Taken in the UK, his intimate portraits feature a cast of men, women, and children engaged in the joyful activity; Lilia Toncheva O’Rourke styled the kite flyers in a mix of traditional and contemporary clothing. “We attempted to create images which lean into the world of magical realism,” says Horder.
In Afghanistan, kite flying is a competitive affair: Flyers compete to cut down enemy kites with sharpened strings. When a kite goes down, children race to retrieve the fallen bird—the so-called “kite runners,” centered in Khaled Hosseini’s 2003 novel. Horder’s camera, meanwhile, finds the pastime’s more tranquil moments. He is interested in people and their experiences: All of his subjects are Afghani expatriates, living in the UK.
On August 15, London’s sky swarmed with multicolored kites to mark the second anniversary of the Talbian takeover. The event recalled the overthrow of the Taliban in 2001, when thousands of kites took to the sky above Kabul in celebration. Horder’s photographs evoke a similar yearning for freedom: “We sought to keep the tradition alive by sharing it with a wider audience. It’s a ray of hope for future generations.”
Models Ali, Amir, Ariana, Azeem, Diana, Milan, Mursal, Mutuk, Saeed, Saiqi, Yusuf. Make-up Jo Frost. Photo Assistants Rory Ronnie, Rob Palmer. Stylist Assistant Mehdi al-Moussawi. Make-up Assistant Francesca Leach. Production Tiagi Production. Special thanks to Afghan Association of London, Ahmadzia Bakhtyria, Mursal and Azeem Niazi + family, Ali Ghaderi, Ariana Abawe, and all kite makers that helped realize the project.
Mutuk wears shirt by Loewe. Coat by JW Anderson. Trousers and sneakers his own. Collar from National Theatre Costume. Milan wears coat and trousers by Simone Rocha. Turban from National Theatre Costume. Azeem wears top, trousers, hat, and shoes (worn throughout) his own. Cape from National Theatre Costume. Amir wears hoodie and trousers by Aries. Turban, glasses, and sneakers his own. Yusuf wears all clothing and shoes (worn throughout) his own.
Left: Mutuk wears hoodie and trousers by Aries. Right: Milan wears coat and trousers by Simone Rocha. Turban from National Theatre Costume. Sneakers his own.
Left: Mutuk wears shirt by Loewe. Coat by JW Anderson. Trousers and sneakers his own. Collar from National Theatre Costume. Right: Milan wears top and trousers by Homme Plissé Issey Miyake. Skirt from National Theatre Costume. Hat and glasses his own. Ali wears jacket and trousers by Moncler Grenoble. Hat from National Theatre Costume. Socks and sneakers his own. Mutuk wears hoodie by Aries. Cape from National Theatre Costume. Amir wears jacket and trousers by Moncler Grenoble.
Left: Mutuk wears shirt by Loewe. Coat by JW Anderson. Collar from National Theatre Costume. Right: Saiqa wears dress and scarf (worn throughout) by Mrs Tahera. Jacket and crinoline skirt (worn throughout) stylist’s own. Hat (worn throughout) by Aries.
Left: Milan wears coat and trousers by Simone Rocha. Turban from National Theatre Costume. Right: Ali wears jacket and trousers by Moncler Grenoble. Hat from National Theatre Costume. Socks and sneakers his own. Mutuk wears hoodie by Aries. Cape from National Theatre Costume.
Left: Mutuk wears t-shirt by Loewe. Right: Ariana wears dress and headscarf from Mursal Boutique. Jacket stylist’s own. Diana wears dress and headscarf from Mursal Boutique. Jacket (worn throughout) by Moncler.
Right: Ali wears jacket by Moncler Grenoble.
Jacket by Toogood.
Right: Diana wears top by Moncler. Dress by Roksanda.
Saeed wears top and wings by Loewe. Turban from National Theatre Costume.
Left: Amir wears hoodie by Aries. Milan wears coat by Simone Rocha. Right: Mutuk wears hoodie by Aries.
Left: Saeed wears jacket by Gucci. Right: Diana wears dress and headscarf from Mursal Boutique. Jacket (worn throughout) by Moncler.
Left: Diana wears top by Moncler. Dress by Roksanda. Headscarf from Mursal Boutique. Right: Mutuk wears hoodie by Aries.
Left: Mutuk wears shirt by Loewe. Right: Diana and Ariana wear dresses and headscarves from Mursal Boutique.
Right: Saeed wears jacket by Gucci.
