In the realm of high fashion, it’s still a radical notion that women should be able to move in their clothes. Kiko Kostadinov’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection—focused on “the applied creativity of women”—affirms this historic rebellion. With odes to pioneers Sonia Delaunay and Sonia Rykiel, co-founders Laura and Deanna Fanning acknowledged that they were building on the work of these late designers for their own innovations.

The collection leaned into Delaunay’s legacy of bold color and abstract pattern: Patchwork merino knits tufted with cobalt and lime fur met the simplicity of a belted coat. Gathered trousers slinked down the runway in iridescent changeante fabric, color-blocked with ice pink and pistachio. Rykiel’s signature stripes were woven throughout—Italian jersey off-the-shoulder jumpers were the Fannings’ answer to her groundbreaking “Poor Boy” sweater. A few models sported striped side-parts and chin-grazing fringe.

The brand’s effortless cool remained foundational—shimmering separates and crinkled pointelle draped over the body, alluding to but not restricting the figure. Taped bubble tops and skirts in plissé crépon offset decorative zippers that side-slashed thighs. Steel cotton trenches and viscose bombers added structure to soft dresses. The Kiko Kostadinov woman moves through the world easily, and with attitude.

Consider the sneaker—the collection only presented models in sporty, two-tone tennis shoes, bright in bubblegum and safety orange. A few pairs were laced with grosgrain ribbon. From head to toe, Spring/Summer 2024 never sacrificed function in the pursuit of unabashed femininity.