Supriya Lele is back on the runway, following a two-year hiatus. “I needed a moment to reflect on what I wanted to do,” she told British Vogue. “I didn’t want to charge ahead without lining things up in a way that made sense for me or the business.”

The fashion industry’s notoriously unrelenting schedule forces the illusion of constant inspiration; independent designers face the nearly-impossible challenge of producing and performing at the rate of commercial labels. In taking pause, Lele went against the rule book—a choice that certainly paid off.

Her eponymous label’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection was conceptually cohesive and sartorially well-executed. Lele’s work has always drawn from her Indian heritage—this season, embedded in a rich palette and sari-like drapes—but none of her influences manifested cut-and-dried. The traditional and the mundane (represented by utilitarian white cotton tanks) become sensual, tapering off into corsets slinking along the body. The designer further leaned on collaborations: a leather jacket conceived with Bentley Motors, and several looks crafted with TENCELTM LUXE’s biodegradable fabrics.

The show was staged in the parking garage of London’s Barbican Centre—what the brand called a “post-modern testament to what it means to be a person living in our multi-cultural reality.” That is, realizing the necessity of seeking support, being conscious of environmental impact, and staying loyal to one’s artistic roots. “I’m a small brand and I don’t want to be something I’m not,” said Lele. “Simple. Nothing wild. Striking.”