Iceberg opened Milan Fashion Week with a high-octane bang. Upon its 50th anniversary, the Italian label focused on the function of its garments. Creative Director James Long elaborates: These are “pieces to throw on, enjoy wearing, and dance until dawn.”

Hardware—like pop-snaps and D-rings—adorned nearly every design, adding toughness to slick textiles, from snakeskins to nylon. Long’s slashed silhouettes left little to the imagination, and black faux-leather bandeau tops sported zipper bands as shoulder straps. Some of the tailoring was executed inside-out, amplifying the hard edge of the collection. A throng of swimwear glimmered with zippers with ‘I’ logo pull tags that peeked out from underneath baggy boiler suits that wore the same silver hardware—adding to the overall scantily clad biker attitude cultivated across the runway.

As Iceberg looked back on the last half-century, audiences saw the revival of its beloved envelope bag, and the launch of a fragrance called Be Wonderfully You. Upon reaching this milestone, Long looks to the future with a confident gaze: “This is the true spirit of Iceberg today: fun, full-on, confident, strong.”