“Chopova Lowena is growing up,” was the takeaway from the label’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection. The assessment belonged to Emma Chopova herself, who, along with co-founder Laura Lowena-Irons, delivered a stand-out for London Fashion Week. Girls Tear, Girl’s Tear was a cross between two demanding influences: the edgy adolescence you might witness at the skatepark, against the ancient Cornish festival Flora Day.

In terms of the former, Chopova Lowena delivered corseted minidresses paired with fishnet, knee-high stockings; leather jackets, decorated with safety pins; plenty of hardware—chain necklaces, big buckles on tool-belt-inspired bags, carabiner-printed skirts. On the other end of the spectrum, Flora Day’s codes could be seen in the motifs: angels, demons, and dragons. Models sported frilly collars, strands of their hair twisted up to mimic horns. A collaboration with UGG generated ribbon-adorned, jewel-studded ankle boots, completing a somewhat-ironic silhouette—equally at home on a fashion student or a mythological maiden.

The presentation was a feat of storytelling, drawing parallels between the folkloric and modern street style—each central to the brand in its own way. “[It’s] the full Chopova Lowena experience,” concluded Chopova, relishing in the moment, and looking forward to the label’s bright future.