A reclamation of sexual energy took literal form for Chet Lo this season. The Chinese-American designer sought to heal the “childhood wounds inflicted by a society that sidelined our differences instead of celebrating them.” Careening headfirst into the ideals of sensuality that once oppressed him, Lo’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection is a love letter to his younger self, grounded by a tender approach to erotica.

Sumptuous silks were printed with what Lo calls “graphic PDA”—vague scenes of people kissing, touching, embracing. The designer’s intention of re-classifying a previously fraught relationship with sex materialized in bare-shouldered, ribbed-knit dresses depicting couples in the throes of love-making. Models’ forearms were decorated with tassels and cords inspired by Chinese erotic art and Japanese Shibari, a form of rope bondage. Lo’s signature spikes were a focal point, appearing in polyester on maxi skirts and dresses, and in metal on loafers by longtime collaborators Charles & Keith. ISKO made sure the collection was virgin-free—free from virgin fibers, that is—lending Lo Ctrl+Z, the brand’s completely recycled denim.

“Clothing has the power to liberate us and allow us to create the version of ourselves that we see in our mind’s eye,” Lo is quoted in the show’s press release. In his mind’s eye, the most aligned person is sexually liberated to the point of wearing intimacy on their sleeve.