“It means dreams, it means savoir-faire, it means heritage. It means the past, present, and probably the future.”

“No one can copy Virgil.”

“I expect them to keep going with KidSuper, because that was fire. I mean, first show ever, and he shut it down.”

Louis Vuitton’s Men’s Fashion Week show was destined to be contentious. Since Virgil Abloh’s passing in November of 2021, Colm Dillane of KidSuper was the first to be selected to co-design one of the house’s collections. Some speculate that he could be the late creative director’s logical successor—that KidSuper’s artistic affinities mesh well with the playful, youthful, fluid world that Abloh constructed over his term at LV. The presentation was indeed vibrant, making bold use of color and graphic patterns. Dillane’s suits were cut boyishly, decorated with blocky text; his jeans were distressed and baggy; and his bags came in all sizes, and in a range of materials, from painted leather to shearling to shining gold metal.

Outside the venue, before the show and after, Document spoke with friends and fans of Louis Vuitton—gauging their thoughts on newness versus tradition, and the shoes that Dillane would attempt to fill.