The perfect pleats synonymous with Issey Miyake are elegant for their simplicity—for their easy grace. That sort of geometric construction served as the basis for the Japanese house’s latest collection, Upon A Simplex. French visual and performing arts company Adrien M & Claire B directed the house’s Fall/Winter 2023 presentation, transforming Palais de Tokyo into something science fictional: Its lighting constructed a river of particles that moved fluidly in tandem with the eerie, rhythmic chanting that filled the room. Like the collection’s garments, a video installation that projected onto the runway folded and unfurled, providing otherworldly beauty.

In keeping with its late namesake’s legacy, the collection was defined by parallel lines—but Miyake’s absence didn’t hinder the house from advancing the designer’s technically progressive practice. The collection amplifies his pleated language with triangular pressings, prints, pockets, and necklines, and its creases are enlarged with oversized silhouettes.

Issey Miyake is immune to the ephemerality of trends, yet maintains innovative dexterity in its designs. For Fall/Winter 2023, that reputation is further cemented; the carefully constructed garments make for a tasteful, ultramodern uniform. But the expectation of sophistication doesn’t inhibit the house from being bold—its affinity for experimentation underscored by the expressive colors that appeared in its Paris show. Issey Miyake is unafraid of the future, and ready to define it.