Under a sea of Kenzo flags resembling collegiate pennants strut models in sailor caps, colorblock knitwear, cartoon-printed bomber jackets, and specialty-crafted denim. The French house’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection features preppy undertones, naval silhouettes, and bright prints, which come to mirror the Japanese streets Artistic Director Nigo grew up on. His teenage years fell during the late 1980s––a time when the Cold War was coming to an end, American university students were role models, and the DC Brand Boom reigned.

“The collection de- and reconstructs the iconography of Kenzō Takada,” states a press release, “through a uniquely Japanese view of Paris shared by the founder and his heir.” Archival motifs and garments were tied into the show, as Nigo refined and expanded his youthful universe.

The Kenzo name was spelled out with alphabet blocks, and printed onto duffle bags. Graphic characters were embroidered onto varsity jackets and sweater vests. Many of the looks were accessorized with multicolored, slouchy beret visors. The label continued to elevate the maritime uniform with crisp collars paired with playful wool vests, and pinstripes were incorporated into workwear suits. Staple prints from previous seasons were reimagined, such as the Wavy Stripe, Pixel Rose Camo, and Hana Leopard.

With his latest presentation, Nigo united the signature vibrancy of Japanese street style with Kenzo’s real-to-wear philosophy.