In his first stand-alone men’s presentation as the creative director of Givenchy, Matthew Williams thoughtfully elaborates on the current status of menswear globally through the consolidated vision of his personal background and the historic luxury house. The Paris Men’s Week show delivers everything expected of a house like Givenchy in fashion’s capital: grandeur, elegance, sophistication, and technology. The only thing that seems to be neglected is pretentiousness. In fact, Williams masterfully cuts through the facade of Parisian exclusivity by setting forth a collection that reflects his foundational understanding of where menswear is today, and where it needs to go.

In a press release, Williams shares that the show represents “a dialogue with the time and culture which shape the way men dress today and tomorrow…it’s a thrilling evolution.” A particular focus on tactical wear uncovers where Williams shines. Through his experience with his brand, ALYX, and an inferred inspiration from brands synonymous with “GORP”—such as Arc’teryx, ACRONYM, and Salomon—he has fused the performance and versatility for which such style is beloved with the highly-elevated aesthetics that Givenchy embodies. Beyond the tactical, other looks from the presentation, like the logo emblazoned sweatsuit sets, highlight a reverence for Americana streetwear culture, which has now become a global phenomenon. In tandem with the European luxury influences around him daily, Williams’s designs are now more than ever informed by his stateside background.