Fashion that entices a reaction, stripped bare to a crude primitiveness with the thrill of kink—this was the concept for Loewe’s Fall/Winter 2022 collection, and fair enough, it’s what the label achieved. Creative Director Jonathan Anderson’s latest presentation was staged in an open hall at the Tennis Club of Paris, covered in earthy brown floor-to-ceiling carpeting, and decorated with giant leather pumpkins by the artist Anthea Hamilton. It was a return to the state of nature, and a rebuilding from there forward: Looks traveled from the prehistoric, through industrial times, well into the future.

The models wore molded dresses in felt and leather—simple yet sculptural, printed like animal hide, and shaped as if the wearer was caught in a breeze. Also present were fur elements—bags and shawls—and roomy, elemental boots that cinched with a drawstring at the ankle. From there, Anderson devised a series of highly experimental garments that played with foreign objects: A latex dress, unassuming at the bust, stretched into the unmistakable shape of a car at its lower half. Balloons formed makeshift bras, or were folded into the drapes of classical gowns. Breastplates were shaped like pursed lips, and high heeled shoes emerged from sheer, clingy fabric.

Anderson is known for his fondness for trompe-l’œil techniques, and this season is no exception. Loewe stays textural, surreal, and lighthearted as it ventures further into unexpected territory.