Dior’s Fall/Winter 2022-2023 collection was, of course, not designed with this particular moment in mind, but the spirit of the show did seem to reflect upon the current conflict in Ukraine. The collection was defined by Dior’s most technically advanced materials yet—body temperature regulating fabrics, organic luminescent veining. The garments still maintained the timeless elegance the house is known for, but they were also sobering, reflective of incessant periods of unrest. Combat gear, elbow-length work gloves, and biker jackets worn over suit sets were not only striking departures for the brand, but also seemed to point to modern global tension.

Delicate and sheer tulle babydoll dresses revealed lacy biker shorts underneath, paired with pumps enforced by elastic straps and neon bungee accessories. Sweeping evening skirts worn with knit sweaters imbued haute couture with homemade elements. A vinyl trench coat made to look like denim was tied over a light blue paisley dress and accented by heavy, rubber combat boots with silver buttons. Netted fabrics and corsets suggested the usage of found resources to make something new.

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection was futuristic, offering up autonomy and redefining heritage in a way that, with time, will become inevitable in practical design.