For her second solo runway show, Nensi Dojaka—winner of the 2021 LVMH Prize—expands the codes of her eponymous label. Straps, mesh, cutouts, and stretch fabrics make up the geometric, clingy dresses, tops, and jumpsuits that the designer established as her brand’s signature five months ago. This design language remains the driving force behind her Fall/Winter 2022 collection.

At first glance, it’s tempting to see Dojaka’s second collection only as a fine-tuning and altering of her first. It would be easy to say that the label does just one thing, extremely well—it would also be a discrediting oversimplification. Praising Dojaka’s now-established signatures only addresses one aspect of her multidimensional skill as a designer.

Even as she distills and focuses her label’s direction, Dojaka is able to experiment in a way that feels new, while remaining connected. Outerwear is included for the first time: Tailored jackets and puffers are cut to silhouettes that complement lingerie-inspired pieces, and the inclusion of velvets, ribbed knits, and sequins emphasize Dojaka’s willingness to grow. At the same time, the exclusive use of black and earth tones reveals the designer’s commitment to cohesion.

Nensi Dojaka collections have been praised for their technical strength and extreme attention to detail, but the designer’s ability to add to the label’s vocabulary without diluting its image deserves even higher praise.