Even if it’s fitting to view a collection through the lens of duality, or contrast, or dichotomy, we can admit these lenses are overused. That said, Kim Jones’ Fall/Winter 2022 collection for FENDI is truly born from pairs.

The idea for the collection came about when Jones saw Delfina Delettrez, the daughter of Silvia Venturini Fendi, in a blouse taken from her mother’s closet: “I saw these prints on myself; Kim saw them on Delfina,” Silvia explained. In the spirit of recontextualization, Jones then found inspiration in FENDI’s archive—specifically in the tailoring of Spring/Summer 1986 and the airiness of Fall/Winter 2000. A collection that began with a moment between mother and daughter found shape in the exploration of sartorial strength and softness.

On the runway, playful and translucent chiffon slip dresses in pastel tones gave way to structured tailoring: trousers paired with blazers buttoned at the top, to prevent the lapel from connoting masculinity in a clichéd way. Corsets interacted with men’s shirting, challenging the standard definition of power dressing.

Though certain show looks only explored one or the other, most combined Jones’ two sources of inspiration. Suit trousers went with wispy tops, blazers were paired with chiffon skirts, and mesh layers emerged from rolled-up suit sleeves and cropped coats. The result is a fresh conception of femininity, creating space for a woman embodying strength and softness at the same time.