With many fashion brands reinventing themselves after a long period of stand-by to capture new trends and feelings of this new world, Ann Demeulemeester decided to stick to its roots and focus on its DNA with up-to-date tailoring.

The collection sharply diverted from Paris Fashion Week’s overarching themes of bright hues and bohemian patterns, with the brand instead choosing to work exclusively in black and white while drawing attention to the stark contrast those colors produced. The simple color scheme allowed for the focal point to be the details and the refinement of the materials used. The objective was to create timeless and sophisticated pieces, such as the sleeveless waistcoat combined with detached long sleeves, a destructuring of the classic garment.

Leather ribbons, crucial to complement the garments, symbolize black ink on the white canvas, and bowler hats conjured a nostalgic ‘90s feeling.

A unique detail of the collection was added by Patrick Robyn, Demeulemeester’s husband, whose handwriting is present throughout the collection, from the garments to the models themselves, leaving the audience with a strong sense of anticipation for the summer to come.