Chunky gold accessories, heart-shaped bags, butterfly patterns, patchworked denim, statement shoulder suits paired with mini skirts — and, as creative director Virginie Viard said herself, buckles of Mary-Janes that “remind us of pirate shoes,”. Chanel’s Spring/Summer 2022 show brought the ’80s back in a fittingly bold way.

The show opened with monochrome bikinis and swimsuits in gold or white combined with chain belts, followed by short dresses in pink tweed, fishnet skirts, embellished jackets. It finished with colorful butterfly prints — specifically, butterfly wings on black chiffon.

All of this was presented at the Grand Palais Éphémère by models that twirled and vamped for the photographers, smiling and having fun on the runway — a spirited ’80s departure from the cool and cold attitude we normally see these days.

Virginie Viard also wanted to pay homage to fashion photographers: “Fashion is about clothes, models, and photographers”, said Viard. “Karl Lagerfeld used to photograph the Chanel campaigns himself. Today, I call upon photographers. I love the way that they see Chanel. It supports and inspires me.”