Adhering to tradition, as a lone principle, is often deemed conservative—clutching to some indeterminate past muddles any sense of a changing future. Bruno Sialelli, now in his second year as creative director of Lanvin, has chosen to harness what he understands to be the foundational principle of the Paris fashion house. Speaking with The New York Times, Sialelli lauds the eponymous Madame Lanvin, saying, “I want to bring back her enterprising, forward-looking vision.” Showcasing a progressive bond to heritage, Lanvin’s latest demonstrates Sialelli’s France in conversation with Lavin’s France—the early 20th and early 21st centuries taking part in an extended discussion.

This manifests in shade and silhouette, with soft tones and sharp tailoring. A creamy pistachio blazer fits snugly, hugging, as many pieces do, glinting sweaters. Throughout the collection, in round neck and turtleneck designs, they offer striking contrast that instantly feels at home. A rich teal handbag with matching gloves hangs against dark navy blue blouson, cotton candy argyle knits bring vibrancy to a smooth earthy tan coat with a fleece collar. A silk dress bearing woodland creatures and foliage calls to mind evening dresses designed by Madame Lanvin in the ‘20s—but a spaghetti strap snaps you back to the present. In an olfactory, Proustian twist, aroma was a factor, with notably fragrant models referencing Lanvin Parfums, which launched in 1924 and was a continual passion of Madame Lanvin. In the end, Sialelli emphasized dialogue, redounding to a true return to form for Lanvin.