For centuries, foundries have been primary sites of recycling, casting metal into various wares, often through the dissolution of old products. Perhaps it’s fitting that #UseTheExisting, Ermenegildo Zegna XXX’s Winter 2020 collection, which emphasizes reuse, debuted in a former Milanese foundry. Shown amongst a concurrent installation by American multimedia artist Anne Patterson titled Art For Earth, 50% of the collection was made with recycled fabrics—namely recycled cashmere flannel—as a gesture towards the ever-growing importance of sustainability.

Led by artistic director Alessandro Sartori, the mix of coats, trousers, various accessories and more aim to refigure the old into the new. “It is all about reshuffling or hybridizing categories, breaking boundaries in order to explore new territories: this is our new tailoring lexicon,” said Sartori.

The collection shifts tonally between softened browns, tans, and blues, and streaks of copper, red, and matte black. Vests and blazers feature prominently as layers fitted for a bustling commute. Other items, like shirts which also function as blousons, make for a casual, yet tactical hybrid. A series of camera bags, holders and straps, created in collaboration with Leica, only further the goal of bringing disparate entities into one. Always recontextualizing, even Patterson’s installation gets in on the act, featuring leftover Zegna fabrics ribboned to create an environment mingling with hints of the collection itself.