From oversized safety pins to tight plastic corsets, the designer continues his tradition of experimenting with proportions.
Out from a glowing yellow tunnel materialized two models in identical black outfits: turtlenecks with Raf Simons signature R embroidery, blazers with satin trimming, matching pants with a frayed side hem, white leather shoes and finally, hand muffs—each personalized with their own message. The first read, “They don’t want you to know what you are: SOLAR YOUTH” and the second, “The future has begun: ARRIVAl.”
This set the scene for Raf Simons Men’s Fall 2020 show—and the future. It’s unclear whether this collection is meant to stand as a message from the future or as an optimistic comment on our current trajectory, but one thing that never fails to be to true: Raf Simons knows how to keep an audience wanting more. He simultaneously invites the viewer to gaze into his world, while leaving them with a distilled sense that they are not fully informed. There’s a disconnection between our world and the one on Raf Simons runway—one that feels both nostalgic of a past once forgotten and a future just out of reach.
As a mixture of David Bowie covers and Trent Reznor’s scoring circulated the room, the models revealed examples of the creative genius that makes up the label. References to “Life on Mars” and “The Others” showcase the designer’s inventive statement on the curiosities of our youth.
Colorful satin collars pop out from under various arrays of knitwear and wool “R-S Lab” coats. Handwoven sweaters, scarves, and even balaclavas were among the knitwear debuted in this collection. Outerwear included full-length pea coats, varsity jackets, and fur-trimmed jackets which featured deconstructed sleeves and tight plastic corset-esque overlayers. From oversized safety pins and chain detailing to pants that fall beneath one’s shoes, Raf Simons continues his tradition of experimenting with proportions.
Raf Simons’s Fall/Winter 2020 show was both an adventurous exploration on his classic garment motifs and a compelling narrative of his dystopian dreams.
