Stefan Cooke is growing up. Kind of. Since the brand’s beginning in 2017, designer Stefan Cooke and his partner Jake Burt have carved out a space of their own: somewhere between reinterpreting British staples and exploring the haphazard irreverence of Gen-Z style. With their Fall 2020 show, rather spookily titled ‘The End,’ the designers signal a new era for the brand, one which includes a Lee Jeans collaboration and renditions of sharp tailored suits, but remains true to Stefan Cooke’s foundations.

“There’s this incoming doom that’s been really felt and the end of the decade,” said Cooke in an interview with WWD. “We were ushering out the old in a way and presenting a new version of [the brand].”

Cooke and Burt flirt with elements of posh collegiate tradition; Fair Isle knits meet collarbone cut-outs, and tweed overcoats are tailored to a boxy, workwear finish. The runway also featured trompe l’oeil tiered trousers, slim-cut studded Lee denim fit for an urban cowboy, and jaunty knit caps (think: tiny skater-hat meets beret). The future might be increasingly filled with doom, but Cooke and Burt meet it head on with innovation, pragmatism, and hope.