For Patric DiCaprio, Claire Sullivan, and Bryn Taubensee of Vaquera, this season seemed to be about embracing vulnerability. “NY found dead September 9,” show notes revealed. “Cause listed as heartbreak. She forgot her history. Also boredom, frustration, disappointment.” The collection that followed was a reflection on this manifesto, opening with an official New York commemorative T-shirt. Pin-striped patterns and oversized silhouettes followed, funhouse-mirroring the sartorial history of the New York officewear. In typical Vaquera fashion, there was purposeful deconstruction and unconventional tailoring. Evening wear possessed a sense of romanticism, with lingerie-like lace gowns and satiny bustiers. New York’s very own chic wake culminated with a model stomping down the runway in a full mourning gown, veil and all. Among the more eccentric pieces, parts of the collection, such as denim, showed us a new side of Vaquera, one that is a little more wearable—all without losing the brand’s beloved idiosyncrasies.