From granny florals to (literally) in-your-face accessories, York-native Matty Bovan presented an unexpected mélange of traditional patterns, reconstructed workwear, and a sprinkle of modern streetwear this London Fashion Week. A Central Saint Martins graduate and LVMH Graduate Prize winner, Bovan has made a name for himself over the past four years with his experimental knitwear designs. This season, Bovan conceptualized his Spring/Summer 2020 collection under the premise of a dystopian future.

True to Bovan’s textile-based roots, many pieces in this collection were constructed through an imaginative use of fabrics. Courtesy of a collaboration with the iconic London department store Liberty, elegant floral prints frequented the runway in patchwork form. Bovan also experimented with peek-a-boo cutouts in unpredicted places, meticulously constructed skirt boning, and a plethora of belted looks—perhaps inspired by his belt bag collaboration with Coach earlier this year. Perhaps one of the most memorable designs of Bovan’s collection were the surreal, lens-like masks which distorted models’ faces. These large rectangular shields were the result of a collaboration with British milliner Stephen Jones, prompting questions of transparency and reality in a chaotic world.