Standing in the fluorescent pink sand of the Dior Men Spring 2020 runway were four massive, crumbling cement sculptures by Daniel Arsham, spelling “D-I-O-R” below a timeworn clock. You couldn’t be blamed for picking up an eerie Ozymandias-type resonance in a show so thematically preoccupied with history and legacy. Dior Men creative director Kim Jones revisited staples of the house’s archive—the gray suit, the newsprint, the saddlebag, the toile de jouy print—while keeping with Jones’s signature impulse to collaborate.

Jones’s eye towards sportswear gave way to exciting desert gear-inspired headwear—pink like the sand. A new collaboration with Rimowa produced a range of hard shell pieces from handbags to travel cases. Past collaborator Matthew Williams again contributed the 1017 ALYX 9SM rollercoaster buckle, and jewelry designed by Yoon Ahn ranged featured delicately curling lily-of-the-valley brooches, key shaped pendants, and a riff on the Dior logo referencing the Arsham installation. A hat in the collection bore the same signs of decay as the Arsham sculptures, with enough chunks missing that it resembled a visor more than a ball cap. The latest chapter in Kim Jones’s Dior Men brought what has become his trademark: a self-aware, pragmatic optimism that is deferential to its past but not intimidated.