Pierre Davis, designer of the Los Angeles agender fashion label No Sesso, made history last night, becoming the first transgender woman designer to show at New York Fashion Week. Her Fall/Winter 2019 collection  impressed a bold sense of liberation on the audience with light-hearted tulle, ultra wide necklines, and exaggerated crop tops, accentuating every bit—and crevice—of the body. Even more structured pieces like laced-up tube tops, cinched corsets, and boxy, broad-shouldered jackets still found freedom as they were worn unadorned over tattoo-covered torsos. Eye-shielding bucket hats and imperfectly worn synthetic wigs epitomized Davis’ signature ebullience.

Davis additionally championed inclusivity by casting only models of color, including singer/songwriter Steve Lacy clad in a sweatshirt cropped just above the rib cage, and singer Kelsey Lu, who opened the show in an electric gust of orange fur and pomp. The atmosphere at Pier 59 was unlike a typical fashion show as it felt more like a family celebration, the models coming together to salute their big sister.