Document goes backstage during Milan Collection Men’s FW16 to take a closer look at highlights from the week.
Emporio Armani
Relaxed tuxedo suits mingled with space age fabrics and apres-ski ensembles in this collection, entitled “Up to Date”. Armani’s love on a well cut pant shone through this season, notably the sailor inspired wider leg and relaxed suit pant, accompanied by interestingly embellished shirts and jacket.
Jil Sander
Known for its praised tradition of minimalism, Jil Sander took a militant approach to the most recent collection. Harness details were added to traditional suiting and outerwear, and nylon bomber jackets transitioned in puffer pants, sweaters, and jumpsuits.
Diesel
Bike messengers, the lifeblood of the New York City fashion industry, inspired Diesel’s cleverly utilitarian offering for this season. Tonally layered and textured ensembles were a real styling triumph for this collection, not at all overdone, and in the most wearable shades of navy, grey and khaki.
Calvin Klein
Always looking at clothing from a technical approach, basic denim, T’s, and sporty outerwear were transformed at Calvin Klein’s latest show. Lustful items from this collection included oversized denim jackets that revealed gold scratches underneath, the use of metallic foiling to the bottom of t shirts, and statement reflective puffer coats.
Marni
For Fall Winter 16 Marni offered a youthful collection, rich in silhouette and subtle ease. From the shapely overcoats, to voluminous shapes in shirting and trousers, the cool factor was not to be missed.
Prada
Adopting a co-ed approach to the usual Men’s show mould, Miuccia Prada pondered “the big picture” in her offering for Fall 2016, reflecting on the world at large and where Fashion holds it place. Visually, an overarching nautical theme tied the collection together, presenting a collection both nostalgic and captivatingly current.
Versace
Versace offered up a futuristic point of view, and a trip to space for its latest collection. While staying true to its tailored aesthetic, there was an element of sportiness that was highlighted in reflective metallic colors.
Dsquared2
The look for Dsquared2 this season focused squarely on the aesthetic, with obvious Japanese references in the clothing and show ambience. Pleated skirts which echoed both Samurai and Scottish Kilt origins were styled in very masculine ways, but it was the seriously covetable outerwear which took centre stage.
Phillip Plein
In true Phillip Plein fashion, luxury and embellishment met sport. Childhood icons like Spiderman, Superman, and Batman were the conversation pieces that were applied to soft supple leather jackets, and pull over sweaters. The accessory that’s on everyone’s holiday list are the black quilted leather skateboards.
Brioni
Brioni’s Fall offering stuck to the brand’s signature classic, understated tailoring. The collection’s Alpine inspirations suggested a clever customer that is all at once prepared, warm, and suave.
Roberto Cavalli
Showing a debut collection deeply rooted in Bohemian sensibility comes easily for designer Peter Dundas, who said himself that the collection was designed with himself, friends and lovers in mind. This intimate outlook assisted him in pulling off the embellished opulence of the 70’s so surely and comfortably, confidently combining snakeskin, leopard, florals, stripes and fair isle patterns for young new-age romantics.
Fendi
This season Fendi took the loungewear look into a seriously texturally luxurious realm, with a heavy handed approach to fur detailing and mismatched check prints in varying scales. It was all at once sumptuous and cute.
Gucci
In true Gucci fashion, this collection freewheeled from one incredibly rich and varied look to the next, full of unexpected details, yet inextricably linked. Inspired by Italian designer Walter Albini, Alessandro Michele cleverly wove the brand’s now recognisable geeky look into somewhat of a homage to the iconic house look of the 70’s.
Etro
Kean Etro took a decidedly naturalist approach to his FW collection, most notably in his choice of inspiration: Walt Whitman’s “Leave of Grass” collection of poems. Autumnal tones dominated the palette, and interesting moth-eaten style distressing brought a sense of history to the suits, peacoats and chunky knits on offer.
No. 21
No. 21 delivered a strong collection, idealistically gender-fluid and blending together military and sportswear elements. Designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua is a master at bringing the softness to menswear in an altogether wearable style.
