You could almost hear the collective sigh of relief—and a few elated yelps—when industry folks learned that Peter Copping had been appointed as the new creative director of Lanvin last year. Founded by Jeanne Lanvin in 1889, the French luxury label is the oldest continuously operating couture house in existence. However, since the late Alber Elbaz’s unceremonious 2015 ousting, the brand has struggled to find its footing. Copping’s installment was a beacon of hope.

Copping is a true design vet with creative-director stints at Nina Ricci and Oscar de la Renta. Most recently, he’d been working largely behind the scenes, having helped Demna relaunch Balenciaga’s haute couture range. Having started his career as an intern for Christian Lacroix, Copping is known for his haute couture techniques and subtly elegant aesthetic, and he nodded to those in his Fall/Winter 2025 Lanvin men’s and ready-to-wear debuts—see the black-and-gold lace gown, luscious draping, and trench coats rendered in satin. Backstage, Copping noted that he’d relished spending time with Jeanne Lanvin’s interiors designs at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, and that they helped inspire the collection’s Art Deco-tinged details. And there were plenty of them, from chevron motifs to intricate beading on a black velvet top that evoked the Chrysler Building, to subtle fringe and intricate sequins that suggested the sartorial freedom of the 1920s.

After the show, Copping hinted that there might be a haute couture range in Lanvin’s future. “I have always worked around the couture sensibility. It’’s something that I feel comfortable with, and obviously, Lanvin, almost more than anyone, does have a legitimacy to do that. So you never know. In the future, that would be nice.”

Haute couture or no, this first outing proved that the brand is finally, once again, safely in deft hands. It was refreshing to see such a skilled designer interpret the codes of the historic house for the modern era, and it’s going to be exciting to see where Copping takes Lanvin next.