Leather, to its eternal credit, evokes hallmarks of high and low culture: ornamental handbags and beaten biker jackets, cowboy boots and sleek loafers alike. Berluti, under the direction of Kris Van Assche, melds the two sides of the coin, offering a fresh exchange of references. Debuting in the Opera Garnier, the luxury leather brand set the world of sportswear in dialogue with its tradition of high-end menswear. As a result, the Autumn/Winter collection is slightly more at ease, leaning into Van Assche’s fondness for streetwear.

Suits are matched with tricolor sneakers, somewhat loose trousers working within and against the world of running shoes. The Allessandro shoe is given an elongated toe, resulting in a diamond shape. Pieces come in a variety of Alice in Wonderland oranges, pinks, purples, and near neon yellows, keeping a sense of levity throughout. As implied by the relationship with athletic garb, the collection as a whole exudes a sense of movement. This is most notably demonstrated by a collaborative set of canvas products with Globe-Trotter, which includes a tote, weekend bag, trunks, and other leather goods. The various accessories only heighten the sense of constant transition and drive.

Between Prince of Wales overcoats and puffer jackets referencing patina colors, Berluti flits between different aspects of menswear, all the while adhering to its perpetual high standards. Speaking with The Straights Times, Van Assche noted the line he toes through his work with Berluti and in the collection, saying, “Sure, we are a traditional shoe company, but that doesn’t mean our clothes should not stand out in the street.”